I see a few different types of person defense in my head. These can each be used at any point during play, and switched between within even the same possession.
Shutdown
Poachy
Baiting
Help
Lazy
Poachy
Baiting
Help
Lazy
This post will examine the Baiting style of defense and how to execute it.
Let me start by saying that I think you must first be able to play shutdown d before you can play a baiting style of d.
Let me start by saying that I think you must first be able to play shutdown d before you can play a baiting style of d.
Your job in this style of defense is to trick the thrower into thinking your mark is open. You then rely on your superior athleticism, path to the disc, or read on the disc to generate a block. This does not rely on poor throws, and if you are relying on that, you are not playing a baiting style, you are either playing a lazy style or you need to work more on shutdown first. However, this generally does rely on non-perfect throws. A perfect throw will almost always beat a baiting style of defense.
Here are a few example situations in which a baiting style is likely to work.
There is a strong wind in the face of the thrower and you force your mark deep because you know that even a good throw will hang up in the wind and you will have extra time to make up the ground.
You know that you are more explosive than your mark so you let them get one step open on an under and you bid past them once the throw is up.
You are hidden from the thrower's view.
There is a strong wind in the face of the thrower and you force your mark deep because you know that even a good throw will hang up in the wind and you will have extra time to make up the ground.
You know that you are more explosive than your mark so you let them get one step open on an under and you bid past them once the throw is up.
You are hidden from the thrower's view.
For each of these scenarios, there is a very fine line that you have to walk. You have to know your own abilities just as well as the person you're marking. If you bait a throw and don't come up with the block, it can be very costly.
With that being said, you may feel comfortable giving your mark even more space to ensure that the thrower is fooled. As you play at higher levels, throwers will be fooled less often or else execute a perfect throw more often.
With that being said, you may feel comfortable giving your mark even more space to ensure that the thrower is fooled. As you play at higher levels, throwers will be fooled less often or else execute a perfect throw more often.
The biggest factor, in my experience, in determining success at this style of defense is seeing the throw come out. The closer you are to the thrower is directly correlated with the importance of seeing the disc come out. Assuming you have gauged your mark's and your own abilities accurately, and you have fooled the thrower, if you don't see the throw come out of the thrower's hand, your chances of success still drop immensely. On top of seeing the throw come out, you have to be able to read the path of the disc in that split second.
Baiting unders:
I like to start on the outside shoulder as the cutter starts under.
I let them in front by taking a half step so that I can then switch to the inside shoulder. This also accomplishes the idea of being hidden from the thrower, and gives you a shorter path to the disc. (Baiting from the outside shoulder is harder imo)
It is important that when bidding past your mark that you don't 'backpack' them. You need to be able to bid past without contact. Assuming a force flick and inside shoulder bait, the easiest way to ensure a safe bid is to bid with your left hand reaching for the disc. Bidding with your right hand generally requires more body control to avoid hitting your mark. See that I have to twist a bit to avoid contact and so I don't land flat.
Examples:
I don't end up getting a block, but I got a hand on the disc and this illustrates the technique above.
https://gfycat.com/PrestigiousFlashyArmyworm
This next one illustrates being hidden from the thrower quite well as well as making your mark think they are open. Yiding thought he was wide open so he did not feel the need to run through the disc and Murray punished him for it.
https://gfycat.com/FakeAgonizingDeermouse
I like to start on the outside shoulder as the cutter starts under.
I let them in front by taking a half step so that I can then switch to the inside shoulder. This also accomplishes the idea of being hidden from the thrower, and gives you a shorter path to the disc. (Baiting from the outside shoulder is harder imo)
I don't end up getting a block, but I got a hand on the disc and this illustrates the technique above.
https://gfycat.com/PrestigiousFlashyArmyworm
This next one illustrates being hidden from the thrower quite well as well as making your mark think they are open. Yiding thought he was wide open so he did not feel the need to run through the disc and Murray punished him for it.
https://gfycat.com/FakeAgonizingDeermouse
Baiting outs:
I have less thoughts about baiting outs. You can afford to see the disc a bit later on outs, but seeing the release still gives you your best chance. There is a lot more variability with baiting outs as the throws will be more variable and are in the air longer. Tracking the disc on the inside shoulder is generally preferable to outside shoulder as it gives you a shorter path and forces the receiver to make a play over the top of you.
I have less thoughts about baiting outs. You can afford to see the disc a bit later on outs, but seeing the release still gives you your best chance. There is a lot more variability with baiting outs as the throws will be more variable and are in the air longer. Tracking the disc on the inside shoulder is generally preferable to outside shoulder as it gives you a shorter path and forces the receiver to make a play over the top of you.
More Video/Visual Examples still to come.
